Interview: Jean-Pierre Braganza

August 16th, 2010

Jean-Pierre Braganza is a universal fashion designer, literally. A Canadian expatriate of multicultural descent living in the UK, his designs truly possess a worldly sensibility. And his mind – since he was young – has been tapped into the intergalactic, resulting in a collection of digital prints and complex cuts that are brilliantly modern. Think of it as a world where fashion is juxtaposed with science. But make no mistake, Braganza has a sense of humour. Here, the designer talks about popularity, bitchiness, and Karl Lagerfeld’s words of wisdom.

The Block: Please explain your transition from Canada to the UK.

Jean-Pierre Braganza: I longed to study at St. Martin’s after becoming aware of the existence of McQueen and Galliano. I packed my existence into a suitcase and moved back to London.

TB: Please explain how you cultivated a career in fashion.

JPB: I could never find anything I wanted to wear except for vintage, which I usually altered myself. It didn’t hit me that I could have a career in creating clothes until I started going to fashion shows, and then I was hooked. I knew nothing else would satisfy me.

TB: What did fashion school teach you about the fashion world?

JPB: It taught me a lot about ego. Rampant insecurity and bitchiness can be an excellent motivator.

TB: After graduating from CSM, you went on to work for Roland Mouret. What made you decide to take the independent route?

JPB: Pure stubbornness. I’m a terrible employee, always thinking I’m right. Not good at taking instruction. Mainly it was because I have to listen to my own music in the studio.

TB: You and Gareth Pugh recently attended Central Saint Martin’s graduate show. Is this because of the theatrical presentation and inspiration, or are you scouting new talent to take under your wing?

JPB: It’s just great to see that the college is still producing the top creative talent. It’s a lovely day out for me.

TB: Congratulations on being selected as a finalist at the El Botón-MANGO Fashion Awards. Even though you’ve officially been in the business since 2002, and you’ve been shortlisted for awards many-a-times in the past, do competitions like these still give you the jitters?

JPB: I think it’s safe to say that I’m used to not winning awards. It’s impossible for me to get excited now, as I’m conditioned to avoid disappointment. But as they say, it’s a great honour to be nominated… and the Mango award last year was a lovely adventure. Spending time with other talented designers like Josh Goot and Jakub Polanka is the best part.

TB: Please explain some of the obstacles of being a fashion designer.

JPB: Two words: cash flow.

TB: You’re a very attractive guy with an eclectic cultural background (i.e., Asian/white mix, British/Canadian). But considering this fascination you have with sci-fi, were you the kid that always kinda felt like an outsider?

JPB: I still feel that way. I think being a little different is what makes us all special. My obsession in all things sci-fi and music adds another layer to my designs and fuels my obsession to push these boundaries.

TB: Does one have to be intrinsically morbid to have a successful career in fashion?

JPB: No, but a sense of humour is mandatory.

TB: When looking up your “stats,” you’ve got a pretty hefty stock list. You’re literally carried all over the world. In your opinion, would being carried at six international global chains beat out being in 30 independent ones across the globe?

JPB: I feel lucky with all the continued support from around the globe and the fact all of these stores represent the best brands and there product mix reflects their great eye for clothes that work for modern women, whether in London, Tokyo or Moscow. The Jean-Pierre Braganza customer is interested in clothes that portray an innate attitude but also have a strong identity… it’s not about following fashion but having a defined sense of style.

TB: I understand you’re inspiration for your A/W 2010 was the song “Controversy Between” by Front 242 and the movie Blade Runner. But I notice some pieces from the collection were relaxed, colourful, and approachable. Does the idea of playing with more feminine aspects of women’s apparel appeal to you more now than say, when you first started?

JPB: My design philosophy is, and has always been, about displaying female silhouettes which are sharp to emphasize the female form while simultaneously covering it, a definite mix of strong femininity and somewhat harsh ideas. Protection and revelation. I love femininity but hate “pretty.”

TB: The menswear you produce strikes me as quite feminine while your womenswear is more dominant. Was this intentional?

JPB: I like the crossover of gender boundaries in clothing. I also design menswear I want to wear and womenswear I love to see on women, strong sexy and fearless.

TB: What the was most memorable thing Karl Lagerfeld (in your Protégé Project days) ever said to you?

JPB: He said I reminded him of himself.

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